Here I started out looking for a new Machine to run programs that my Taig could not do.
But after looking into everything out there I got to thinking I could just make the Taig bigger!

That is to say give me just more on the Y X and maybe Z Axis.

This is what I am going to do.



I know the bed moc-up is going to work and it should be a Great add on or upgrade.
The DBL Bed for the Y Axis is now going to be 19 inches long.
we will do a step cut on both beds so this will make the Y Bed 18 inches
then we take the X Axis Lead Screw (18.5 inched) and use it inplace of the Y Axis Lead Screw.
I will then take the New 18.5 in Y axis lead screw and machine the end of it down for a bearing and make a rear bearing holder and mount it
to the back of the bed.

This should true things up a little and let me run with the lead screw nut backed off a tad.
Next I will take the X axis table and machine it out to mount it up to the Z tower and remove the Z setup there now. I will also make a rear bearing holder here as well.

Then we will make a new Spindle mount for the Z axis to make up the difference.

But I am also going to add a New head for the R8 collets Then I will have one set of collets for both mills.
I have been working on the idea of the X2 head and motor kinda like Hoss did on his X2 with some of the upgrades he has made.

The Idea here is to get 10 inches on the Y axis and 20 inches on the X Axis and 10 on the Z axis.
and keep it under say 1000.00 the cost of a new Machine! I feel we will be around 400.00 in total parts.

So in the end we will have 10x20x10 in total axis travel.

I will need some help from all of you as we go ok. pics and stuff to come as parts come in and I get to working on them.

Tell me what you think!

thank you MLP.

MLP...

I can't wait to see how this works out for you,

Im Curious on how you plan to get the Spindle out 8-10 more inches and be strong enough with the Lever effect working against you.

I am sure you have it figured out but this seems like it will be the tricky part.....

Well Admin it would look like this for the Taig Z Axis.


And it will also have the added mounting like the picture below for my X2 Head setup and Z Axis

I am Brian by the way...

I like the design but you might have to beef up the stock back column, With more weight and hanging out farther you might see vibration issues...

Some guys won't even use the 1 inch block under the spindle saying it vibrates more than in the Stock position because of the lever effect....

I have not noticed it on mine but I set mine up with the block right from the Start

I seen somewhere can't remember where but a guy used 2 I beams welded together to make a L shape and he mounted the mill to it, he said it really beefed it up......

Some real good points there we will see as we go I guess I did feel I would need to do some on the back end.

When I did the first upgrade to this Taig with the blocks on the Y axis-and the block inback of the Spindle mount and new lead screw
it worked out great, I did add a bolt hole on the top of mine in the Z tube and at the back of my bench and used a ratchet strap to help keep in inplace.

Plus I also added a counter weight with cable it was added to the motor and went up to a pully and to the back wall where there was another pully and down the wall to the counter weight. it also worked out good.

that z axis tube can hold a 400 lbs engine (same size tubing on my engine stand) just shorter - it will hold upto anything I can do to it. I feel if it is just braced up and the added back mounting points things should be ok.

as for a lever effect going on I just dont see it plus the complete system will be mounted to a 5/8 sheet of aluminum that is 16" X 26" so like I said we will see.

Thanks for the great input Brian

Plus as I get done with each mod I will know more. it all looks good on paper.

MLP, if you don't mind me asking about your couterbalancing pulley system, I started into that project awhile ago and after hearing numerous issues about "bouncing" of the headstock when doing a lot of "Z" height intensive work, I scrapped the idea. I still have everything for it but just put it on the back burner.

May I ask how you have gotten away from the vibration issues with counterbalancing? What weight did you use?

Thanks and I look forward to watching this build, looks like a fun one -

Dave

OK...sounds like you have it under control,

Have fun with your project, Looking forward to the Final Result,

Thanks for the info, I just may do this eventually as it's good to know at least someone has had some good results from this.

As for the rear column, I think you got her knocked out perfectly, can't imagine that going anywhere.

Dave

Thinking on this a bit more, maybe you could actually have wings come out on each side rather than go out the back of the rear column. Going out the back, you're probably looking at around 40 inches front to back now.

Of course if you have the room, what the hell!

Dave

I did look at that also Dave and yes I do have the room I can fit 3 cars in my home shop and I still have 18 feet from the car or truck to the back wall.



Thanks Guy's I think this is going to be fun and a step away from my norm I look forward to it so much just wish some parts would come in!

keep it coming as we go on in this build!

Plus I work in Carbon Fiber I could get real crazy but I don't think I will but you never know

Hey Frets, have you thought about using and air cylinder to counter balance the headstock?

Rick

Yep, that was an option I learned over at the "zone" but haven't really looked into it.

Have you done this mod?

Dave

Link to this air cylinder mod please.

Parts for the Y Axis and Bed and Rails should be here today or next.

First Project see pic below.


Thank you

MLP

I hope I am posting this in the right place.

Hi I am doing a mod on one of my Taig mills.

The question has come up what are you going to use for the Z axis to ride on?

Well I have been looking into "V" Groove Wheels and Rails as well as Linear Guide Blocks and Linear Rails.

What do you think and is there something else out there what would you use?

Thank you

MLP



or

Any of those should be Fine I would think..why not the Taig Headstock.....

what is the cost difference...?

Well the Z on the Taig is 6 inches I was going to take it to 10 inches by taking the X axis table and mounting it to the Z axis mounts.
and go on from there.

Now I am thinking of just using the Z axis parts and making a new back plate for it and using a X axis screw from the 2018 mill and see how it gose but I wanted to see if anyone had other ideas.


MLP

Seems like you could use the X axis and get what you need with the Taig Head ....

Would take some Doing but it would be all Taig and that would be neat to see rather than a gearbox on top.......but thats just me

I hate Internet Explorer 8 Man

Well for this build we will keep the Taig stuff.

For my other Mill we will do the same mods but I will go with the X2 Front Housing and spindle for R8 collets.
Like Hoss Machine did to his X2 but onlt the Front half of the Collet holder and the rotating 360 deg head
and center mounting motor and belt drive.

So we will see.

When using the R8 spindle set up, you're going to have to make sure you have the Z column good and sturdy as you're using that as leverage when tightening those collets with one wrench.

Dave

I am sure but for the 2nd upgrade I am going to go with the X2 Zaxis mount.


And add some of the bracing that we have made on the Taig Z Axis.

Drawbars extends through the top of the spindle and is tightened from there. Don't tighten the drawbar to tight
There is no need to just snug it up.
Removing it just undo the nut and tap it with a rubber mallet or brass hammer

Thanks for the heads up.

added a website for the build

Not much there right now ok. But check it out if you want.

I am going to bolt and weld that bad boy on to the Taig.

New Y Bed setup looks like we got 19 inches here. feels sweet but I need to make a few changes to the Y axis lead screw nut - in place it will be a X-Axis CNC Leadscrew Nut here is a pic but we need a new Camara as well.

Looking great, thanks for sharing.

What are the issues with the leadscrew nuts?

Dave

Yea....Looks Good

How are you planning to mount the tables together....?

Sound good...yes post them here

we will follow along with your Progress

Sorry about the pictures New Camera so the above shot didn't make it. :LOL:

Well here are a few pics I will also put all of them on the website tonight.

Here is the start of the DBL Bed mount this is the second shot at making it all work out.


What it will look like with the spacer details on the website later.



Y axis DBL Bed and steel ways mounted.



X axis saddle mounted on the Y bed base.



Bed All the way back!



X Axis Table mounted.



I have ordered a Z axis tower mounting screw 26 inches long as well as a few other things.

It took alot of work but this thing is sweet its motion is like butter! see ya soon. MLP

Looks Sweet.....

Too bad you couldn't get 2 Way Guide Rails the full length....Looks like they Match up in the Center well though...

what scale Mustang is that..?

Well the plan is once all of this is done and it works with out any things coming up, then I will make a New Bed Mount one peice front to rear, A new Y axis bed 20 inches and a set of rails 22 inches and a few added peices and once I am done with the Z axis I will show step by step how to do it your self plus I will offer a kit as a addon for Taig owners.

Plus I will also make complete mill Called MLP Super Mini Mill.


Oh the 65 Mustang is a 1/10 scale R/C car I make, The chassis is called The Viper WGT Car and it has HPI Body and wheels and tires. I will produce my own 65 Shelby (R) for Racing Mustang body.
Much like the Trans Am Shelby.s for that Era!
www.mlpmotorsports.net

OK...I get the concept now......I missed that somewhere, Sorry

That is Really the Way to go on a Project like this, in my opinion

Looking forward to seeing the End Result, Should be Sweet....






The Mustang looked Bigger than 10th Scale in the Pics,

I am making some Parts for 1/4 scale cars right now, I thought it might be 1/4 scale.....Looks Nice

Oh yea....Happy Birthday Too.....

No big deal Brian - Thanks for the Happy B-Day wishes!

See I am not going to make changes to the new parts that come in I do all the changes to the old parts if it dont work out I then have all new parts for my Taig

But I did all my home work on this and it is going to be one heck of a Mini Mill.

as long as I keep it under the Price of a New CNC Router then it will all pay off. I think I will come in about 1/2 the price this will also let me make a lathe setup for this Super mill and a 4th axis as well all CNC. and a few other things as well.

1/4 scales are cool! love them. I will stay in 1/10 scale!

MLP

New pic's of the Y bed Done! 19" total !! It rides smooth.......... It was not easy for the Taig parts from one bed to another are not the same The 4 steel railways were close but the y bed base out of 3 Machines were not. But here are the Pic's and when I make these parts the base will be a one peice unit along with the steel railways, and it will make this job much better.



The Under side of both beds were milled out to to except a 5/16" flat stock steel undermount I made, and we also milled out 2 pockets on the underside of the front bed to screw the two beds together the front bed screws into the holes for the old y leadscrew mounting.



The underside steel flat was mechinedand and tapped and screwed to the underside of both beds.





Well after an all nighter it is time to move on to the X and Z Axis!

MLP

Marty

Looks Good so far......Marty

Its almost Going to be a Router when you are done.....

Well I would say I am ahead of the game I looked at routers and well that is what started this off. Price of a new Router 3000.00 W/CNC setup. 1800.00 to 2100.00 CNC Ready so far I have spent under 200.00 and I now have a Y Axis that I get 18" easy.

Test Z Axis setup for the next project.




I have ordered a new motor post mount - this will let me mount the post on the other side of the spindel mount - the new motor mount will be a 2 peice design a base and ajuster.

This is a 4" spacer on the backside of the dovetail I need it to be 5 1/2" But I am working on a rotating head kinda like Hoss did for his X2 I ran this lastnight and the cuts were great no problems at all.



Thanks Brian

More pics to come when parts get here, plus like I said I will do a complete brakedown of the complete project at the end and give you a list and pics on how to do it yourself.

Marty

Hey Marty that's looking good. One thing that has been sticking in the back of my mind is the possibility of the two piece ways shifting and causing misalignment and/or binding issues. Once upon-a-time I used to install/service large plasma shape cutting machines. We would try to adjust the ways (rails) on them to less than 0.001" of perfect alignment and it woudl work great unless the machine foundation would move/settle unevenly. We always suggested that the company pour separate footings/foundations for the tables as it would eliminate the problem for the most part.

In the case of your extended Y-axis you have aligned the two sections with a machined adapter, which is really good. I'm wondering if you used single piece ways if that would help too. It would help keep both base sections moving together as they warm and cool.

Just a thought.

Jeff, if I understand you correctly, I believe he mentions that in the post before this one?

Quote:

when I make these parts the base will be a one peice unit along with the steel railways, and it will make this job much better.

Dave

Ah! I completely missed that, thanks Dave!

Yes Jeff thanks for pointing that out - I bet a lot of people are asking the question, it took a lot of work getting these to beds under .001 I did give a Brief Description on how I did this your right Dave.
Thanks

At this point the base mounts (Taig Blue Steel mounts) do nothing more than hold the y beds inplace and give the Z tower a place to mount to, The beds can be removed and re-installed with no problems to lining up just like it was a single bed now.

That is to say I made a 5/16 steel undermount (I will go with a stainless steel part later) for the two beds and tapping it to the two holes in each bed, Down the center that are not used.
I milled out a Channel in the underside of the beds to mount the steel plate,
under its bed mounting line.
Then also I cut pockets and drilled holes in the face of the underbed of the front half so I can bolt the two beds togther using the Y axis screws mounts in the rear bed.

I have taken this apart and put it back together maybe 10 times now and it trues right up, The railway mounting slots were off at the start even a one peice railway would not have worked, after I bolted the two beds together I had to re-mill the slots and then I took a .785 oilgrinding stone by hand and spent maybe 6 hrs getting these two beds to matchup perfect. hot and cold have not played into this much at this time-my shop is always 60 degs but the finished product will have a once peice bed, one peice railways and a one peice bed mount, I will make a 15" base setup and a 19" (same size of the unit now) all with one peice setups.

I will at the end of this build post everything you need and need to do to make this or something like it yourself, I will also offer these as upgrades to your Taig Mills I will do the same on the Z and X Axis and offer others to carry and sell these upgrades.

I will also have my own Mini Mill to offer to the public in mid summer I will also send one of my own mills out for a few select people to try.

Not that I am out to make a better wheel here or take anything away from Taig there mills and Lathes do a great Job and have never gave me any problems!

Remember for now this is my Prototype Machine when I am done here I will make and mount everything to my other Taig CNC mill.

I guess you could say this is my SolidWorks software LOL.

I prototype it, then I cad it, then cut it time spent making not drawing.

Thanks

Marty

Hi! Yes back again.

Well I had to move on to the Taig with the X2 head!!! I finished it today.

I did not care much for the way the Taig Z tower moves with the updated Taig Head unit I had going So I took it apart and I am working on a New Setup for that Design.

I moved on to the R8 X2 Setup and I like it! I do need to make something to keep the Z tower from moving other than that I like the power of the X2 head and motor the finish on the parts is much better and when I am done I will be sure to add DIY so others can try it also. I am going to make a back brace for the Z tower I will order a 5/8 aluminum plate in the shape of a yield sign and add it to the Z tower and mount it to the 5/8 aluminum plate I have for the unit base to mount to.

Pics to come this weekend!!!

Marty

Well here is the X2 head unit.
I made a Dovetail to mount just like the Taig mill but in the size of the X2 head and screwed down with all 8 screw holes and i also used the X2 jib, this keeps it inplace.



I will also be making a Back brace for the Taig out of 3/4" Aluminum 28"X36"The Shape will be like this /__\ with the z tower in the middle-this will keep it from moving.



The weight of this setup is way to much I will remake the head unit out of Aluminum and I will also add coolant passages in the designs but that is down the road my Z tower support will help in this.







Extra Head and mod macup for Taig

Well Here is the work done to date.



Here you can see we are working on our DBL X Axis Tables.
The Z Axis extention is done!
Y Axis Extension is done.



You can see we have some temp bracing going on till we finish the X Tables Then we will be working on our Enclosure and Flood system and last or CNC Setup still sitting on the work bench in the house.



Here you can see we are running a X2 Motor in a central location works great nice and quiet I was moved on how well this works gives the Taig the HP and torque to spin the big mills!



Here you get a look at the New X Axis lead screw.

After we finish the 2 Taig tables and bolting them together we will have 28" on the tables and we will have a 4" Spacer and a 1" over hang on the left side to let us use the full 28" of the Table, and a tooling plate of 30" also.

You can also see the build here and we will have all the details when we are done! http://www.taig.mlpmotorsports.net/page1.aspx

Looking good Marty!

You're my hero, Marty -

Where'd you pick up the lead screw?

Thanks for sharing this great project with us-
Dave

Thanks Jeff! & Dave!
It is a crazy Thing, not like I thought it was going to be as far as the build - It works Great!!! Don't get me wrong here, But doing this build I can tell you if I knew then what I know now I would have just built something else! more work than it should have been - But in the end it is way under the price of a cnc router plus it will do much more than a router,

Last I will keep posting here on this project as we go!

Not a Taig and Not a X2 But a MLP Mini Super Mill Coming Soon!

Wait till you see the New MLP Mini Mill it will have the same XYZ travel as this mill but it will have less screws and made out of 5"x5"x24" Aluminum Stock! more ridged and no head vibration!!! Base will be 24" long 22" of total Y axis travel 24" steel railways(just like the Taig) I think might try something else but we will see, The Z tower will be 22" long or high? and it will have 16" of Z axis travel. and the X Axis will get a 28" bed with a working 28" The Head unit will be an R8 spindle or 3MT, The X2 motor controller is a PWM variable speed controller with overload protection and a zero-speed start interlock. Plus a head adapter and motor plate to mount your Taig head.

Marty