so from my schooling and my 3 finger method
x+should be table out,y+ should be table right
z+should be spindle up correct?

Thanks everyone you have been great! I now have a machine that at least Jogs in all 4 axis (ok 4th is only a spinning stepper motor at present) both plus and Minus (David it was your xml that got me closest) Now to get a simple program chuck up some foam and see what happens, any one have any simple programs to run? Any recommendations?

Machine is currently set up as:
X+ Moves table in toward Column
X- Moves table out away from Column

Y- Moves table to the Left (Looking at table with column behind table)
y+ Moves table to the right

Z+ Moves Spindle Up
Z- Moves Spindle Down

4+ Runs motor Counter Clock Wise (looking at output shaft face on)
4- Runs Motor Clockwise

SO am I close, What settings, and how do I change what needs changing in Mach 3?

Anyone with a sample program to cut send me a PM for my e-mail, thanks!

Bryan cheers

You can go into System hotkeys and change it anyway you like.....

with the Mach screen up go to config, scroll down to system hotkeys..

on a Different note..

If you set your Motors to run 10-12 ipm rapids you should be ok with the deepgroove box...

Its slower than a Gecko can run but you should not lose any steps there

here is a simple Maltese cross engraving .....012 deep...3.5 inches I believe...XY 0 is in the center of cross.....I use a 1/8 ball endmill

N10 G00 G17 G20 G40 G49 G80 G90

N18 G00 Z.1
N20 G00 X-1.5649 Y.8754 S2000 M03
N22 Z.05
N24 G01 Z-.012 F6.16
N26 Y-.8429 F10.16
N28 X-1.5571 Y-.837
N30 G02 X-.9493 Y-.4507 I1.5731 J-1.8034
N32 X-.2528 Y-.2705 I.9386 J-2.1925
N34 X-.8272 Y-1.5662 I-2.3488 J.2662
N36 G01 X-.8303 Y-1.5703
N38 X.8828
N40 G02 X.3275 Y-.2557 I1.898 J1.5765
N42 G01 X.3295 Y-.2549
N44 G02 X.3348 Y-.2537 I.0102 J-.0327
N46 X1.6143 Y-.8265 I-.4469 J-2.7137
N48 G01 X1.6193
N50 Y.8714
N52 G02 X.3288 Y.2887 I-1.7005 J2.0458
N54 X.3257 Y.2944 I.0374 J.0241
N56 X.878 Y1.6147 I2.3713 J-.2163
N58 G01 X-.8208
N60 G02 X-.2486 Y.3022 I-1.9619 J-1.6362
N62 X-.2519 Y.3009 I-.0059 J.0103
N64 G01 X-.2572 Y.2999
N66 G02 X-1.5649 Y.8754 I.3408 J2.5479
N68 G00 Z1.
N69 M30

SO I center the x, y in center of cross and what about z how high off part is it?
(ZERO z ON SURFACE OF PART, CORRECT?)


How do I set the zero points on the machine for this?

Thanks

Bryan

clamp down a 4inch x 4inch or so piece on your table...Jog table so that tool is center of the material, the buttons on the DRO that say zero x,y,z ...click Zero X and Zero Y, now carefully bring your tool down and touch the top of the part....I use a piece of paper and move it back and forth till you feel pressure on the paper....now click Zero Z



bring Z back up .1 or so and let her rip....

This will be a good little test for you to get your feet wet......Have Fun

maybe change the F10.16 to F8.

Thanks off to try......


Ummmmm......





i better check the code....

ALWAYS think of movement from the bits perspective (as though bit were moving).
X+ = Bit moving towards right of table
Y+ = Bit moving towards rear of table
Z+ = Bit moving up

Quote:

Machine is currently set up as: X+ Moves table in toward Column X- Moves table out away from Column Y- Moves table to the Left (Looking at table with column behind table) y+ Moves table to the right Z+ Moves Spindle Up Z- Moves Spindle Down

Your X and Y axis are swapped you need to change the pin assigments in Ports&Pins.

_________________
Happy Machining!

Jeff Birt - Soigeneris.com
Proud Dealer of Taig, Precisebits, Gecko 540,
SmoothStepper and A2ZCNC products.

ok here what I had...

N10 G00 G17 G20 G40 G49 G80 G90
N12 G20
N18 G00 Z1.0
N20 G00 X-1.5649 Y.8754 S2000 M03
N22 Z.05
N24 G01 Z-.12 F6.16
N26 Y-.8429 F10.16
N28 X-1.5571 Y-.837
N30 G02 X-.9493 Y-.4507 I1.5731 J-1.08034
N32 X-.2528 Y-.2705 I.9386 J-2.1925
N34 X-.8272 Y-1.5662 I-2.3488 J.2662
N36 G01 X-.8303 Y-1.5703
N38 X.8828
N40 G02 X.3275 Y-.2557 I1.898 J1.5765
N42 G01 X.3295 Y-.2549
N44 G02 X.3348 Y-.2537 I.0102 J-.0327
N46 X1.6143 Y-.8265 I-.4469 J-2.7137
N48 G01 X1.6193
N50 Y.8714
N52 G02 X.3288 Y.2887 I-1.7005 J2.0458
N54 X.3257 Y.2944 I.0374 J.0241
N56 X.878 Y1.6147 I2.3713 J-.2163
N58 G01 X-.8208
N60 G02 X-.2486 Y.3022 I-1.9619 J-1.6362
N62 X-.2519 Y.3009 I-.0059 J.0103
N64 G01 X-.2572 Y.2999
N66 G02 X-1.5649 Y.8754 I.3408 J2.5479
N68 G00 Z1.0

the N12 step to go to inches I put in as it seemed to run in metric first few times I tried it. , changed units back to MM and reran with this was ok (I understand it should not be needed but I felt better with it there for sure).

Bryan

Yes, come to think of it, I must have, I heard something as I was putting away
my edge finder but when I looked back it was cutting, so I guess that must
have been the point, but at least it seems to work (I knew it would run off one
side of the part as the part was just over 3 wide)

ps Material was machinists wax, and hole was starting program with tool only
.7inches above part (needed to be more than 1" like you said)

Bryan...im sorry ..I just looked at the program and its .120 deep not .012 as I thought

I engrave and cutout these sometimes and thats the Cutout Program.....change the .12 to .012 for engraving

Sorry about that, ...make the top of the Part Z Zero

I can give you more if you want to play somemore....also you can go into the Wizards and make programs that way...circles,text etc.

SURE AND ESPECIALLY 3" OR LESS, PREFFERABLY 2 INCHES SO i CAN SEE THEM FOR SURE ALL CONTAINED ON MY SET UP, NEED TO MOVE CLAMPING POINT, BUT YOU GUYS HERE ROCK, IF IT WERE NOT FOR YOU GUYS i'D STILL BE TRYING TO GET HER TO JOG, BUT BECAUSE OF YOU i HAVE MADE SOMETHING NOW AND EVEN THOUGH IT IS WRONG, i CAN SEE HOW THE CODE GOES TOGETHER AND IT MAKES MUCH MORE SENCE TO ME THIS WAY THAN JUST SITTING AND READING IT ALSO.

Thanks to Jeff My machine will be moving in standard directions also, thanks
Dave, Jeff and Admin and the rest of you out there helping us new guys.

sorry caps lock, I didn't mean to yell, you guys make a good day a awesome day, thanks for all your help, it really does make a big difference in peoples lives and enjoyment of their tools, thanks!

Bryan

PS any Newbees like myself just need something to cut, worried about your expensive tooling?

Use Machinist Wax or machinable Wax (2/3 way down page, right side)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=846&PMITEM=505-3628

it can be re-melted once you are done and shavings/cuttings put back in, wont harm your tools, cuts and holds shape really well, can be glued together, and many other great proplerties, and it is really safe for cutting, in example above i cut 1.2 deep instead of .012 deep with a 1/8" cutter but did not have to worry once i saw it start as I knew it could take that type of a cut in the machinable wax, this mi9ght not be the case for some metals and hard plastics and you can re-use it, so you are not waisting good Material, for those making Fiberglass molds or Latex molds even for puter, this stuff is great and also acts as its own release agent, so all is good give it a try, thats my newbee corner for this week!

Bryan

ok...since you got the code I deleted the Loooonnng post...LOL

WOW That was long...Send me your email and I will send you more

here is what it looks like

So thanks to Jeff_Brit I am going in the correct directions now
and here is the result of Admin's code, thanks everyone.
(that was alot of typing and checking numbers....)



I may make this a little deeper and put it on the deck of my son's model boat
(his middle name is Wolfgang and he loves wolves)

Thanks to everyone again, now to get to making my own code....

There ya Go....Looks Great

Have Fun